If possible, transplant your tree on a cool, cloudy day in the spring or fall.
When moved short distances, the root ball ought to be wrapped and tied in burlap or similar material.
Over long transport distances, the branches and leaves of a tree should be loosely tied and covered by a breathable fabric to minimize wind desiccation.
Step 2: Dig the Plant Hole Correctly
Dig a hole only as deep as the tree rootball, and twice as wide.
Do not add fertilizer to the hole: fertilizer could injure the roots of a transplanted tree.
Do not loosen the soil below the hole's bottom.
Step 3: Plant Tree or Shrub and Arrange Roots
Place the tree's rootball into the hole and remove the burlap cloth, including any tie wires or wrapping.
Spread the roots out into the circular hole space and prune any damaged or broken roots.
Carefully point pot-bound roots which point inward towards the sides of the hole.
Step 4: Backfill Hole with Soil
Backfill the hole with soil while holding the tree truck steady (an extra pair of hands will help!)
Compress the soil around the roots with your hands or feet to avoid any air pockets.
The soil should just reach the original soil line on the tree trunk and not any higher or lower.
Create a soil dam in a circle just beyond the filled hole's perimeter.
Step 5: Water and Mulch
Water the soil evenly around the tree so water soaks deeply around the roots.
Place 2 to 3 inches of mulch around the tree, but keep it about two inches away from the tree trunk.
Provide regular and frequent watering if weather is extremely dry, and allow enough water to soak deeply to roots.
Do not over-water!
Step 6: Care for Your New Tree or Shrub
Do not apply fertilizer in the first year after transplanting.
Do not pile-on the mulch! Keep mulch no deeper than 2 to 3 inches.
Stakes and guide wires are generally unnecessary. But, if stakes are needed, drive 2 to 3 stakes into the ground beyond the hole perimeter, and place the guide wires through soft material around the tree trunk to prevent damage.